Power Circuit Wiring Restoration

 There are several different Power Circuit Wiring Diagrams and while very close there was at least one in-car cable that didn't match any of them.  This is a link to a spreadsheet which compares the different diagrams.

The Controller Model

Star Wheel Carrier Shaft Bushing Outer

1" .758 ID bushing but not sure where it goes.

StarWheel Shaft.

• Reduced .750-.0625 to fit better.
• 4.5 inches works fine. 

Controller Operating Lever

• Used most measurements from original but filleted 1/4" on Lever arm instead of profiling.
• Left large hole at .75" and will reduce StarWheel Shaft to fit.
• Shortened from 4 5/16 to 3 inches to make it easier to fit on stand.
• 
  

First Miles in decades !!!

   During the jack stand power up we found an issue that prevented us from going into reverse.  We had to fiddle quite a bit with the speed control tiller and mast but eventually found the magic combination.  With reverse fully enabled we were ready for a road test.

  The 1917 Detroit Electric's first road trip in years!!  You'll see a bit of accumulated dust blown off the top as we speed away.

  The car ran beautifully.  Its quiet except for the clunking of the controller when you shift gears.  Steering is fairly easy...if you're moving...not so much if you're standing still.  In subsequent testing we found that we get to about 14 mph in 3rd.  Usually, we run about 35-50 amps with an occasional spike to 100 amps when shifting.  Current goes up when going uphill or braking as expected.

YouTube Video of First Test run

 

We are only using one battery pack (48 volts) at this time.  The car would normally have a battery pack front and rear which it would switch from parallel ( 42 volts) in speeds 1 thru 3 to series (84 volts) in speeds 4 and 5.  Since we have only one pack we are limited to speeds 1-3 which is just fine for our demo rides around the museum grounds.  We installed a block in the controller to prevent accessing speeds 4 and 5.

 

It's Alive!!!

After several recent months of cleaning, repairing and replacing various and assorted components we successfully energized our 48 volt battery pack.  With just one battery pack we are able to use Speeds 1 through 3.  Speeds 4 and 5 which require two battery packs in series for 84 volts will not be used at this time.  We have placed a restrictor block on the controller sprocket to block those speeds for now.

We saw a bit of arcing in the controller even though we used the conductive grease as suggested by the guys at Rev's museum.  A check of the fingers showed that some of them were not seating on the contacts hard enough.  We disassembled them and bent the finger blades by hand to exert more pressure.  This greatly reduced the arcing.

So everything worked great in the forward speeds.  However, reverse was not possible because the speed controller mast is improperly adjusted.  Therefore, we were not making proper contact in the reverse switch.  This turns out to be a non-trivial adjustment involving relocating the controller mast mounting bracket and other things which we haven't quite figured out yet.

So we're going Forward for now...will Reverse some time later.

48 volts of batteries in our nice oak battery box

Voltmeter/Ammeter Combo gauge Restoration

 Our classic Weston combination voltmeter/ammeter gauge set was broken.  The previous owner had tacked on another volt meter rather that fix the original.  

Dale Nichol our resident electrical expert came to our rescue.  He took the meter apart and determined that the two original precision resistor packs (two mica boards wrapped with 1200 wraps of AWG-44 (OD=0.0022 ...that's tiny!) had open windings.  Much too small to repair.  So he determined the required values and replaced them with modern resistors.  He attached them to the original mica boards so that it would all fit back in the meter movement case.

There was also the issue of the original leads into the case being frayed, brittle and broken.  Dale attached the original leads to a sturdy Jones terminal block which will ensure that leads stay intact and are easy to attach to.

Motor Bearing Maintenance

 The manual says that the front and rear motor bearings are "easily withdrawn" but that did not prove to be the case.  Don, Buzz and Robert but the Model 63 up on the lift and removed the rear end and the electric brake to expose the bearings.  They did not want to come out.  So rather than destroy a bearing that we could not replace, they used a needle greaser and greased them in place.

Other Detroit Electrics that we know of...

1917 Detroit Electric Model 68 B

Revs Institute
2500 Horseshoe Drive S.
Naples, Florida 34104

Found an article in Hemmings on this car.  March 2021, made a contact with John Arsenault.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2018/06/07/back-to-the-possible-future-the-revs-institute-adds-a-1917-detroit-electric-to-its-collection

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1917 Detroit Electric Model 68

PDF detailing Donald's restoration.

Restored by Donald Davidson 

https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1100087_1917-detroit-electric-vs-2014-bmw-i3-a-century-of-electric-cars

YouTube video of this car in action.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1IinQf0q3Q

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1917 DE Model 64 Brougham owned by Neil Shelton in Portland, OR.

An article from Curbside Classics talking about Neil Shelton's.

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-1917-detroit-electric-brougham-charged-up-for-another-century/